Category: Behavior and Training

Puppy Survival Guide Part 2: Mastering Management

Posted on by Guinn
Puppy management: a puppy stands in an exercise pen on a tile floor with dog toys.

Training is essential, but management is key and often overlooked. Trust us when we say it will make raising a puppy easier! Follow these puppy management tips for effective training.

What is management?

Management is setting up and controlling the environment to prevent undesirable behaviors, for example, picking up shoes so your new puppy doesn’t chew them. We don’t expect infants or toddlers to stay out of trouble or danger, so why should we with puppies? When it comes to children, we are all well-versed in environmental management, such as baby gates and cabinet locks. We can easily apply these same practices with our puppies.

Why management is so crucial for puppies?

The more chances a dog or puppy has to practice or rehearse a behavior, the more likely they will repeat that behavior in the future. By preventing our puppies from chewing on shoes by keeping shoes put away out of reach, they are less likely to make a habit out of it. 

Second, it helps keep our puppies safe. Just like a tiny human slowly crawling around, grabbing things with their hands, and trying to explore the world, puppies will do the same… only at top speeds and with lots of sharp teeth! A puppy only takes a few seconds to grab an electric cord and chew through it. 

Lastly, it gives you peace of mind and a moment to relax. Raising puppies is a lot of work and can be stressful. Putting them in a safe, managed environment for a little while will allow some normalcy back into your life.

Our favorite management tools for raising puppies!

  • A puppy zone: Just like a playpen for babies, an exercise pen or contained puppy-proof zone offers a place for a puppy to stretch their legs and play. It will keep furniture safe from puppy mouths, especially during teething. It also gives them a space to hang out while you’re home that doesn’t require your undivided attention—allowing puppies to learn that they don’t need your attention 24/7 and to entertain themselves while you are nearby. A puppy zone should include a comfy area to sleep, puppy-safe toys or chews, and access to water. Ideal places to set up the puppy zone are higher-traffic areas in your home. Exposing the puppy to the sights, sounds, and regular going ons in the household. A kitchen or living room are great options for setting up a puppy zone. ​As shown above, you can protect your floors and simplify cleanup by purchasing affordable remnant sheet vinyl flooring from your local hardware store for your puppy zone.
  • Crate: A crate is a suitable sleeping place for puppies but not a suitable place for them to spend eight hours while you’re at work. You can even set up a crate in a puppy zone and leave the door open. Puppies will often put themselves to sleep in the crate if given the option! 
  • Baby gates: Baby gates are a great option to help contain your puppy and keep them from venturing into rooms they should not.
  • Metal-mounted water bowl: A metal-mounted water bowl is on the side of the kennel or puppy zone so puppies cannot flip the bowl and spill water everywhere. 
  • Pee pads: Puppies potty a lot, especially in the first 4-5 months. Pee pad training makes cleaning up after puppies much easier.

By taking these steps, you can help your puppy learn good behaviors! Using management to prevent unwanted puppy behavior will make life easier with your new furry friend. 

Stay tuned for the next installment of our Puppy Survival Guide series, where we’ll explore meeting the needs of puppies. Remember, puppies’ natural curiosity and love of play can lead to destructive behaviors if unsupervised.

Leash reactivity- where do I start?

Posted on by Guinn
Tan and white leash reactive dog pulls on leash while barking on a tree lined walkway.

Leash Reactivity is a term that many humans who own dogs are unaware of, and when they hear it, they don’t know what it means or looks like. Leash reactivity is an on-leash dog barking, growling, lunging, etc., at a trigger. The “trigger” is something or someone that causes this fear response to engage at a certain distance, specific to each dog with reactivity. 

Leash reactivity does not necessarily mean aggression. Dogs can be leash reactive out of frustration or fear, which does not always mean they intend to harm the other dog or trigger. For example, a dog’s leash reactivity may be based on the frustration of being unable to greet another dog. As a result, he barks and pulls on his leash when he sees the other dogs in an attempt to get to them. However, once given a proper introduction, he can play successfully or never shows this type of behavior when off-leash at the dog park. And remember, some fearful dogs may be asking for space from other dogs and do not want to be social with other dogs, and that’s okay too.

Training tips to start with leash reactivity

Tip #1: Bring the treats! Everyone likes a payday, winning the jackpot, or a tasty morsel after dinner. And dogs are no different. So not only will it be easier to work with your dog, but this method will help your dog form a positive association with their triggers.

Tan and white dog takes a treat from a lady's hand while sitting outdoors in a green field.

Tip #2: Give yourself space. Which will likely mean more space than you think. If your dog is leash reactive walking down the street, try crossing the street. If they are walking down the same street, stop behind a parked car that acts as a visual barrier, allowing them to gain distance between you and your dog. 

A tan barrier reactive dogs barks behind a black iron gate.

Tip #3: One training exercise we like to use here at HSU is Look At That (LAT.) This exercise changes the dog’s emotional response when they see their trigger. To practice LAT, start far from the trigger so the dog can remain calm. The moment the dog looks at the trigger, mark by saying “Yes!” or clicking with a clicker and immediately follow up with a reward (treat.) Continue to practice this exercise throughout the walk; over time, you can decrease the distance between the dog and their trigger. This reinforces the behavior of staying calm around the trigger and teaches them an alternate behavior to reacting. 

If you are struggling with your leash reactive dog and looking for advice, please visit our website or contact [email protected]

Enriching Your Cat’s Life

Posted on by Guinn
Black cat lays with head upside down while playing with feather wand toy during enrichment session.

Are the 3:00 AM  zoomies causing havoc to your beauty sleep? Or are the mopey meows getting you down? We know how much you love your feline friend, but lately, the beat-up and tired wand toy hasn’t performed like it used to. Enriching your cat’s life isn’t hard to do, and with these tips, you’re sure to add some spark to your sweet fur baby’s life!

Spice Up Your Old Toys

Cat toys can get expensive, and paying an arm and a leg to entertain your cat should not be part of your New Year’s Resolutions. Instead, take some of their favorite old toys, put them in a baggie or container with catnip, and hide them for a week or two. Ensure they’re in a place your cat cannot access, like a high cupboard or locked closet. After some time has passed, pull out the old toys and watch your kitty go bonkers! If your cat isn’t enticed by catnip, don’t panic! Other herbs, like silvervine and honeysuckle, have similar effects on cats. Be sure to supervise your cat any time they’re interacting with herbs to ensure a safe and fun experience.

Fluffy cat sits on cat tower while reaching out and pawing at feather cat toy.

Work Hard, Treat Hard

Did you know that many cats can learn simple tricks just like dogs? Sit, lay, high five, and shake are all common tricks to teach a cat. Grab their favorite bag of treats, or even invest in a clicker, and start training them-you’ll be amazed at what they’re capable of! Like dogs, having your cat perform a trick or task for their treat is much better than simply allowing free access to their cravings. Many people also create obstacle courses for their cats to complete or offer treats in a puzzle to stimulate their minds as they “hunt” for their food. If you’re unsure of where to start, check out this video and remember that patience is key! This can be an extremely fun experience for both you and your cat.

Tabby cats give woman's hand high five during training session.

Think Like a Cat

It sounds silly, but sometimes all it takes to excite your cat is to think like a cat! Cats are natural hunters, and they imitate that instinct when they play. During playtime, think to yourself, “How can I make this toy act more like prey?” Slithering a teaser toy slowly on the ground, hiding small toys in corners, or gliding feather toys through the air may be just what your cat needs to activate their hunting instinct. Furthermore, cats hunt, kill, and eat their prey in the wild. So reserving a special treat for your feline friend post-play time helps set them in a natural rhythm and makes them more excited for playtime in the future.

Gray and white kitten lays on cat toy.


With these tips, you can enrich your cat’s life and increase your bond with them. If you want to add a little furry member to your family, you can always view our adoptable cats here.

Howl-O-Ween Pet Safety Tips

Posted on by Guinn
A black kitten sits in front of pumpkins placed on an orange backdrop.

As spooky season approaches, it’s easy to get carried away with all the tricks and treats, but pet owners should remember that Halloween can be a stressful time for their furry friends. Follow these pet safety tips to keep your familiars, hellhounds, and riff-raff secure and delighted during this festive time of year.

Know which holiday treats are safe for your pet and which are not:

Keep pets away from anything containing chocolate or xylitol (sometimes called “birch sugar”), which is a popular ingredient in sugar-free candy. Don’t allow children to store their Halloween candy stash in their room, as pets have very strong noses and can likely find even the most carefully hidden treats. Keep candy up high and stored securely out of paws reach.

Loud noises and spooky animatronics can be scary for pets:

Don’t put up decorations that put your pets at unease in locations where they will routinely come across them. A piece of decor which makes loud noises or moves unexpectedly and jarringly could cause pets to panic and hurt themselves or others. Also, avoid taking pets to areas where these types of decorations are present, such as local Halloween displays.

A scary looking skeleton ghost dangles from a front porch with cobwebs around it.

Don’t leave pets outdoors and unattended on Halloween night:

With all the hustle and bustle that is typical on Halloween night, it is dangerous to leave pets out in the yard without supervision. Aside from this being a stressful commotion for animals overall, sometimes the “trick” part of Halloween gets out of hand, and pets are frightened, injured, or worse by overzealous trick-or-treaters.

Similarly, it’s a good idea to have a safe space set up indoors where your pet is away from the revolving door of trick-or-treaters. This can help stop pets from becoming overstimulated and from running out of the open front door.

A little girl in a blue princess costume reaches out to pet a large golden colored dog in a yard with halloween decorations.

Make sure pets have microchips and ID tags:

Should your pet be startled, they may react by running away from whatever startled them. In case of an escape, make sure all your animals have microchips and ID tags with up-to-date and accurate information. An often looked-over pet safety tip, this is an easy one to help reunite you with your pet should they get lost.

Keep pets away from jack-o-lanterns, candles, and glow sticks:

Pets can potentially burn themselves on candles used to light jack-o-lanterns and other decorations, or they could tip them over and cause a fire. Glow sticks, though typically non-toxic, have a bitter taste which may cause a negative reaction by any pets who decide to chomp on them.

A small black dog with a snaggle tooth sits next to a jack o lantern wearing a halloween sweater.

Know your pet before deciding to put them into a costume:

While some pets don’t mind dressing up for Halloween, for many, it can be an experience that causes undue stress and even injury. “Pets should never be in a situation where they are uncomfortable or fearful as that can create a situation where the pet has to protect themselves by growling or biting,” said Anjela Sullenger, HSU’s behavior and training manager. Don’t force your pet into a costume if they seem uncomfortable or nervous. There are plenty of other ways for them to celebrate the holiday!

Ready to hike with your dog? Get to know FELT!

Posted on by Guinn

Have you always wanted to take your dog hiking but aren’t sure how to get started? Well, you’re in luck, because it’s as easy as FELT! That’s Fitness, Equipment, Location, and Training! 

Getting started

First things first, make sure your dog has the needed fitness level for tackling the open trails. If you have any doubts, talk to your vet before your first hike. If your dog is very young, very old, overweight or brachiocephalic (smooshy face), you might need to start with shorter distances and be extra cautious of extreme temperatures. Just like us, dogs who haven’t hiked before or lately should start with shorter, slower hikes to build stamina and avoid overuse injuries.

Group of hikers with a golden colored dog in Hiking Hounds dog training class walk down trail lined with tall green grass and mountains in the background.


Next, make sure you have the right equipment. A well-fitting harness will take the pressure of your dog’s neck and give you something to grab onto if you need to help your dog down a ravine or over a log. A standard six-foot leash can be a great choice, especially on more crowded trails, but many dogs also benefit from a longer leash, such as a 15 or 20 feet long line. This allows your dog more freedom to sniff and explore while also keeping her safe and in accordance with leash laws. You’ll also want to bring along plenty of poop bags so that you can do your part to keep our trails safe and clean for other trail users. Finally, make sure you bring plenty of treats! You’ll want to reinforce your dog for making good choices while out and about.

Location, location

When it comes to picking the location, there are countless great online resources, such as the AllTrails app. Just remember that sometimes the information is not always perfectly accurate, so be sure to double-check signage when you arrive to be sure you’re on the right track. On hot days, trails near water or with generous tree coverage can make for a more enjoyable experience for dogs and humans alike! Along the Wasatch Front, you’ll also need to be sure to avoid trails in the watershed, as dogs are prohibited in these areas, and there’s a hefty fine for straying into these areas. They will be delineated with “No Dogs” signage at the trailheads.

Group of hikers with a red colored dog in Hiking Hounds dog training class walk across a stream with green forest behind them.

The right training for hiking

Finally, be sure your dog has the right training to be successful out on the trails with other people and dogs. Some skills that will make the hike more enjoyable for both of you include: walking politely on a leash, greeting (or ignoring) other dogs as needed, crossing natural obstacles such as rocks and logs, coming when called, and more. If your dog doesn’t yet have a firm grasp on these skills and you’d like some guidance, The Humane Society of Utah offers a series of Hiking Hounds training classes throughout the summer. Each class is self-contained and will help your dog learn the skills they need to be a successful hiker for years to come.

Rule of 3’s

Posted on by Shae

3 days, 3 Weeks, and 3 Months

Bringing home a furry new family member can be one of the best days ever!  But transitioning to a new home is often one of the most stressful times in an animal’s life.

To help make this transition as smooth as possible, it can help to break it down to 3 days, 3 weeks, and 3 months.

First 3 Days

The first 3 days should be set aside for your dog or cat to decompress. It’s exciting to bring home a new family member and it can be easy to accidentally overwhelm them! Prepare a quiet place ahead of time where the dog or cat can relax and find their bearings. This space should be a safe place for them to rest and a place where they will not get into trouble when unsupervised. This might mean setting up a small room or bathroom for your cat as they can panic when given too much space too soon.  You might use a baby gate or exercise pen to create a safety zone for your new dog set up with food, water, and a soft place to rest. This can help cut down on accidents or chewed on household items while your new dog is adjusting to a new routine.

cat at the feet of a person


Follow your new pet’s lead and keep your interactions short at first. Give them plenty of chances to rest and decompress. You should avoid any unnecessary interactions that they may not be prepared to handle. A trip to the dog park or the pet store may cause a meltdown! Family members may want to visit right away, but this can be overwhelming. Save these visits for a few weeks down the road when you have had a chance to grow your relationship with your new pet.

First 3 Weeks

Over the next few weeks, you will start to see your new pet’s personality begin to emerge. Creating a consistent schedule with plenty of opportunities for you to reward your pet will help grow this new bond. This is a good time to start to establish a routine with meal times, regular potty breaks, exercise, and enrichment. This is also the time you will want to slowly integrate your new pet with other animals and children in the home. Any introductions should be done using short sessions and an adult should actively supervise all interactions.

Start to engage them with new toys and different activities to see what keeps them engaged and can burn their extra energy. This is also a great time to begin teaching some foundational skills using reward-based training. Cats love reinforcement too! So figure out what toys or treats they like. Use them to reward them for behaviors you want to see. 

Three Months

The next few months will be a chance to identify what routines work for you and your new pet. You should start to notice how much exercise they need and which activities they enjoy. Once they seem relaxed and comfortable with your routine at home, this is a great time to slowly start to integrate new activities like a trip to the park or introductions to family and friends.

Dog kissing a lady

This might also be the time that you start to notice some less desirable behaviors. Most of the time, you can work this through together with support from a behavior expert or veterinarian.

Remember that your new pet is doing their best, but they may not understand what you’re expecting of them. Keep in mind that their behavior may be species-appropriate or age-appropriate even if it’s not ideal for us. We can suggest more desirable outlets for those behaviors. Our behavior staff is happy to assess the situation and send you resources to help you and your pet. You can contact our behavior department for support.

What can happen when using E-collars, prong collars, choke chains on your dog?

Posted on by Guinn

With so many training options available, it can be hard to figure out which is the best method for you and your pet. The animal training industry remains unregulated, leading to various opinions about what methods are the “right” methods. Evidence supports the use of reward-based methods for all canine training, along with the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.

Here’s why:

Scientific evidence in support of positive reinforcement-based training has been overwhelming. Studies show that positive reinforcement leads to improved welfare of companion animals, has a positive influence on the human-animal bond, and effectively achieves training goals.

  • The use of aversive-based methods and equipment, including e-collars, prong collars, choke chains, and other tools, can result in fallout, including:
    • Aggression (directed towards the handler or others)
    • Escape/avoidance behavior
    • Learned Helplessness (apathy)
    • Generalization of fear to other elements in the environment (including the handler)
  • The science of behavior across species is well-established and has been studied for decades through fields such as applied behavior analysis and animal welfare science. This field overwhelmingly proves that positive reinforcement is the most humane and effective method to teach and to modify behavior
  • Using punishment becomes habitual and easily escalates. This is not the relationship we want to promote for pet guardians in our community

In alignment with our mission to “eliminate pain, fear, and suffering in all animals,” the Humane Society of Utah chooses to use evidence-based force-free training. We want to grow the human-animal bond by increasing understanding between humans and their pets, establishing clear communication, and putting the welfare of both human and animal first.

Positive Reinforcement Training

Posted on by demo

With so many training options available, it can be hard to figure out which is the best method for you and your pet. The animal training industry remains unregulated, leading to a variety of opinions about what methods are the “right” methods. In alignment with our mission to “eliminate pain, fear, and suffering in all animals,” the Humane Society of Utah chooses to use evidence-based force-free training.

We are committed to a behavior program based on positive reinforcement. When training or handling animals, we advocate the use of humane training techniques utilizing evidence-based learning theories. We know that committing to positive reinforcement helps us build trusting relationships with animals while effectively meeting our training goals.

Scientific evidence in support of positive reinforcement-based training has been overwhelming.

Studies show that positive reinforcement leads to improved welfare of companion animals, has a positive influence on the human-animal bond, and is effective in achieving training goals.

We pride ourselves on remaining up-to-date and using the latest information that the scientific community has to offer regarding companion animal training and animal welfare. Our behavior staff are all certified dog trainers and regularly participate in continuing education to ensure that they are familiar with the latest understanding and best practices pertaining to animal behavior. We feel it is our responsibility to provide the most effective training options for our community.

Why Don’t We Use Correction-Based Training Methods?

  • The use of aversive-based methods and equipment, including e-collars, prong collars, choke chains, and other tools can result in fallout including:  
  • Aggression (directed towards the handler or others)
  • Escape/avoidance behavior  
  • Learned Helplessness (apathy)  
  • Generalization of fear to other elements in the environment (including the handler)  
  • We want to grow the human-animal bond by increasing understanding between humans and their pets, establishing clear communication, and putting the welfare of both human and animal first. 
  • The science of behavior across species is well-established and has been studied for decades through fields such as applied behavior analysis and animal welfare science. This field overwhelmingly proves that positive reinforcement is the most humane and effective method to teach and to modify behavior.
  • Using punishment becomes habitual and easily escalates. This is not the relationship we want to promote for pet guardians in our community.

Sources

American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior Position Statement on Punishment

Does training method matter? Evidence for the negative impact of aversive-based methods on companion dog welfare. Vieira de Castro et al. December 2020

University of Pennsylvania. “If You’re Aggressive, Your Dog Will Be Too, Says Veterinary Study.” ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 18 February 2009.

Efficacy of Dog Training With and Without Remote Electronic Collars vs. a Focus on Positive Reinforcement China et al. July 2020

Electronic Training Collars Present Welfare Risk to Pet Dogs. Cooper Et Al September 2014

IAABC Statement on LIMA

“What’s Wrong With This Picture? Effectiveness is not Enough” Dr .Susan Friedman

Collars or Harnesses?

Posted on by Guinn

Why Harnesses?

The area around a dog’s throat is one of the most vulnerable parts of their body. Research finds that when a dog pulls, or the leash is jerked, the pressure exerted on a dog’s neck by a flat collar is enough to risk damage to the dog’s neck. 

  • Collars should only be used to display ID tags, not for restraint or control. Harnesses are a better option to control your dog safely.
  • Slip and prong collars can cause injury to your dog’s neck and spine. Even when used correctly, these collars work by causing pain.

Prong collars, shock/E-collars, and choke chains also have long-term adverse behavioral effects, including problems with aggression, anxiety, and fear.

Safer Options

There are comfortable harnesses available that make walking your dog easier. Harnesses with a leash attachment at the dog’s chest and back help reduce pulling (like the Freedom No-Pull Harness).

Our staff is happy to show you how to fit and use a new Freedom Harness. 

* Please note, some front-clip harnesses restrict movement to keep the dog from pulling, but those are meant for short-term management while you are working on training your dog to walk on a loose leash. A Y-shaped harness such as the Perfect Fit harness shown in the illustration below, is a better solution for long-term use as it allows the dog to move freely. 

 

Training

Once you have the right equipment, your dog can practice walking on a loose leash. If you make it rewarding for your dog to remain near your side, you will notice that your walks go more smoothly. 

Our statement about using positive reinforcement training

Learn how to train your dog not to pull 

How to Help With Resource Guarding

Posted on by demo

Resource guarding is a term used to describe a dog concerned about others (people or animals) taking away items he values such as food, treats, toys, or even a favorite spot. This can look like a dog standing frozen over his item of choice, running away with his treasure, growling, or even snapping and biting. This behavior can be managed and a training plan set in place so that everyone in the household can interact safely in a stress-free way.

What To Do

  • Monitor your dog’s body language so you can gauge his comfort level when he has things of value.

  • Keep high-value resources picked up unless you are training.

  • When feeding your dog or giving him special food items, crate him, or separate him from the rest of the family to prevent any accidents. We want you to avoid any confrontations while the dog decompresses and you begin to gain his trust.

  • Be aware that your dog may try to guard other things that you are not expecting, such as a bed, crate, a particular person or random household item.

  • Begin training a positive leave it and drop it cue. Please contact the behavior department for steps on how to do this. You can make trading your dog for treats and new items into a fun game!

The management portion described above will be crucial to the training process. We can help you create a training plan to reduce your dog’s anxiety around resources. If at any point your dog snaps or bites, please contact us immediately for help.

What to Avoid

  • Do not grab items from your dog or disturb him while he’s eating. This will only further convince him that you are out to take away all his favorite things. If the dog has an item that he shouldn’t, offer him a trade of something much better. Toss a piece of cheese, hot dog or lunch meat to him

  • Do not yell or punish your dog for running away with an item, growling, or any other guarding behavior. This will only make the behavior worse. Instead, trade your dog for something he finds even better than what he has in his mouth and then work on your “Drop It” cue.