BARKING
A barking dog is a nuisance to his owners and scourge of the neighborhood. It is natural for dogs to bark in play or excitement, but no dog has to bark all the time. If he does, it is just laziness on the part of his owner for not correcting him.
If you wish your dog to be a watch dog, he can be trained to bark when someone comes to your door or onto your property, but he also can learn that you do not want him to keep on barking after you have come to see what it's all about.
Like all other training it takes patience and consistency on the part of the trainer to get good results.
When your dog barks for good reason, praise and pet him. However, take hold of his collar, or if he is a small dog pick him up and calm him, telling him he is a good dog, but now to be "Quiet!" Hold his mouth closed, if necessary, to stop the barking. Release him when he is calm. When your dog barks without reason at a passing noise or because another dog is barking, tell him firmly "Quiet!", and be ready to enforce command with correction. It may seem a great nuisance to get out of bed to quiet your dog if he is barking at night in his kennel in the yard, but few trips to the dog run will get the lesson across and mean peace for all. Since barking is natural and a normal function of a dog, expecting your dog to stop barking altogether is absurd. For most dogs they are simply alerting you. Going to see what the dog is barking at will quiet most dogs. If not, teach your dog to stop barking on a command word such as "Quiet!", "Enough!" or "No Bark!" When he obeys immediately praise him. If he does not obey, use a noise maker to startle the dog, which will cause a momentary quiet, and praise. Be consistent and patient, a barking problem does not go away overnight.
Disciplining must be done every time he barks without a cause until he learns the meaning of "Quiet!"
DESTRUCTIVENESS/ CHEWING
All puppies, while they are teething, want to chew on things. However, they should outgrow this stage as they get older and they shouldn't be allowed wanton destruction at any time. Give the Puppy a safe toy of his own, hard rubber or rawhide, large enough not to be swallowed. Do not give the puppy any toy that he might not be able to distinguish from something you wouldn't want him to chew on. If you give your puppy a pair of old shoes to chew don't be surprised when he chews up your new pair of suede pumps - they just can't tell the difference.
You can also try using a product such as Bitter Apple. This product is a liquid that you can spray on things that you don't want your puppy to chew on. It tastes awful to them and they'll stop chewing on the item on which it is sprayed. Bitter Apple and other similar products can be found at pet supply stores.
Do not leave a puppy where he can chew things up, and this also applies to a dog with this tendency. The best solution is a crate, or wire cage, which satisfies the 'den instinct' every dog has of wanting a special place while staying out of trouble. The crate should be in a 'people' area such as a kitchen or family room, enabling the dog to observe family activities instead of being banished to the cellar or porch.
On the positive side, a dog that receives plenty of attention and exercise is seldom destructive. He is also less likely to be noisy. Make a practice of taking him for walks and playing games with him, such as throwing a ball for him to retrieve. Even the dog whose owners are away during the day can be a happy one, if he receives plenty of attention while they are home.
RUNNING AWAY
A dog that is safe inside an enclosed yard cannot run off to join other dogs or go looking for trouble. However, if it isn't possible to fence in your dog or if he has no sense of responsibility and strays when your back is turned, he can be trained. Never, never punish him when he returns to you. This only makes him go farther and stay away longer the next time. If he runs from you, begging you to chase him and make it a game, run in the opposite direction, calling him, or you might even hide. He probably will not be able to resist the urge to see what you are doing. When he comes near enough for you to catch him, praise him as if he had never begun the argument. If you can go after him and catch him, then discipline him, but if he comes to you, always welcome him with praise. Periodic practice sessions in the "Come" obedience exercise will help, too.
The young puppy will get into the habit of coming when called if he is encouraged. Use his name, followed by "Come!" when you call him to his meals or when you are outdoors with him. Always receive him with praise. It never hurts to reward him with a tidbit, either. However, do not make him dependent on food in training. Don't call the puppy casually, forget that you did and let him wander away. Never call him unless you want him to come and then follow it through. Go to him and pick him up, if necessary. As the puppy grows older and is more easily distracted by other things, such as a dog across the street or a passing bicycle, teach him forcibly, if necessary. If he persists in going in the other direction, get an assistant to chase or throw something at him, a rolled magazine or similar object. The pup will soon decide that life is safer by your side and readily obey your call. These lessons are not taught in a day or two. All training must be consistent.
RIDING IN CARS
Car riding can be pleasant for both dog and owner. Most dogs will ride quietly in the car if you insist, the first time out, that they stay where they're put. It's best to first accustom the puppy to short rides around the neighborhood or just down to the store. If your dog has grown up without riding in the car, start him the same way, gradually lengthening the time in the car. Teach him to sit on command at home; then he can be trusted to obey the command in the car. If you plan to do any traveling with your dog, there's no doubt that a crate will prevent many possible problems, both in a car and in a motel. A dog who has been 'crate trained' always feels safe and secure in a crate, no matter what the outside surroundings are.
CHASING CARS
Dogs that chase cars are bound to come to a bad end. Again, preventing this habit is easier than correcting it. A fenced yard is the best solution, and the trained dog will obey "No", "Come", or "Stay" if he starts to chase. However, if it is necessary to correct the habit, you must have the cooperation of assistants; one to do the driving, the other to shoot a water pistol at the dog or drop a bag full of water on him as he runs alongside. Assistants on the roadside to chase the dog back as you call him also may be required.
JUMPING UP
You may like your dog to be overly friendly or playful, but your guests won't appreciate muddy paws on their clothes and neither will you when you are dressed in your best outfit. So it's wise to discourage jumping up from the outset. You can step lightly on the dog's hind paws or the small dog can be pushed down, nudging him with the foot. The larger one can be knocked off balance with your knee. Be ready when he starts to jump and get that knee up first, to push him away. Command "Down!" as you push him away. It is even more effective if the dog doesn't know 'what hit him' when you put him off balance and he'll appreciate your praise and "good dog" all the more when he stays down on all fours. Holding up the hands just encourages a dog to leap at them, so you will have to help when children, or people not accustomed to dogs, react in this way.
NIPPING AND ROUGHNESS WITH CHILDREN
A half-grown puppy plays roughly and doesn't know his own strength. He must be taught to be gentle with small children and this task is complicated by the fact that children often will excite the puppy more by running and yelling, and by the sharp, high pitch of their voices. Admonish both children and pup to be quiet so the dog will learn that playing is all right but manhandling is not.
Because they are teething, puppies like to pull and chew on almost every-thing with their tiny, sharp teeth. They often will do this to the hem of a child's clothes, shoelaces, even legs and hands. A small puppy doesn't mean anything by this. It is not biting in anger but merely the way he would play with another pup. However, you can discourage nipping very easily, and should do so . . . it's not a becoming habit when the pup grows up. Say "No!" firmly when he starts to pull or nip, and tap him gently under the chin. If necessary, hold him away and calm him, then distract his attention to a ball or other toy.
PLACE FOR BED
A good rule around the house is to have your dog learn what "place" or "bed" means. Even if his usual sleeping place is an outdoor kennel, he can be taught to go to a certain place in the house when you want him in but not under foot. It should be a place he likes, such as a crate, where he can find security from household activities or from too much attention from visitors. When he goes there of his own accord, his wishes should be respected. To teach him to go there on command, point to the place or take him there, if necessary.
STAYING ALONE
It is much easier to establish a good habit than to break a bad one. The young puppy that is left alone for his nap, shut in a room away from everyone, or in a crate in a corner, will learn to accept it. Pay no heed to his cries; he'll soon settle down. Go out occasionally and leave him for a short time, making sure he's in a safe place with a toy to occupy him. One of the safest is his own crate. In this way the puppy learns that being alone isn't a catastrophe. Then if the time comes when you have to leave him alone, he will take it as a matter of course and not rend the air with howls.
A dog that barks when he is left alone is a problem because you are not there to discipline him. Take the time to train him when you don't have to go away. Act as if you were leaving, close the door and wait outside. As soon as he begins to bark, hurry back in and scold him. Repeat this performance, staying away for varying periods of time, always telling your dog what a fine fellow he is when he remained quiet.